Having given WiFi a miss for now with my iPAQ, I’ve not given up on the theory of connecting to it wirelessly – I’ve managed to sync with my PC using just Bluetooth (BT).
I bought a cheap USB Bluetooth dongle a while back, mostly so I could sync and backup my phone without resorting to fiddling with the rubbish cover for the phone’s USB port. The dongle was still plugged-in, so why not give it a go?
Well it took some faffing around – mostly because the first thing I tried was Bluetooth syncing with my Lenovo W500 laptop. Unfortunately that has some proprietary Bluetooth drivers installed and these don’t work in the same way as the native Windows BT stack. It took ages for me to concede defeat and realise it wasn’t going happen without a driver fix (and I’m running the most recent drivers).
Connecting to my home PC was reasonably straightforward, once you get the concept of what the BT devices are actually trying to do. It would seem Bluetooth creates a virtual serial port for you, and your application (in my case ActiveSync on the desktop) just listens for a serial device communicating using ye olde serial porte. I can now just use my iPAQ to say “establish a serial connection with DAISY*. That then triggers ActiveSync on the desktop and data is exchanged as usual.
There’s a couple of caveats: BT is a slow communications protocol – only ever really designed for low quantities of data (business cards, audio headsets etc), so transferring files and installing applications is a no-no. It also appears that ActiveSync doesn’t play very nicely with the fact both Katrina and I logon to the PC using separate accounts (and thus start-up new instances of ActiveSync). I’ll need to get round to changing that so it just starts for me.
On the plus side, both the iPAQ and the PC are “class 2” devices which have a range of about 10m, meaning I can be pretty much anywhere I want inside our house to successfully sync.
Who needs WiFi?
* DAISY is the name of my main PC
I’ve been trying to get my new iPAQ working with my home wireless network with no success.
I had a chat online with the HP technical support, who walked me through the standard scripted stuff with no luck. The wireless card definitely works because if I switch security to either off or WEP-only it works fine. For the iPAQ 5550 you need updated firmware and drivers to support WPA encryption (as per my current network config) and these have been applied.
After much digging, there is a suspicion that the problem lies with my Linksys WAG54G2 wireless router. In the wireless security configuration, setting it to “WPA” mode provides just one encryption option: “TKIP or AES”. I’m no WiFi security expert, but TKIP is a software-only thing (basically some wrappering around basic WEP functionality), while AES is hardware-supported functionality.
The theory behind the Linksys option is that devices which support AES can use that encryption method, while others can default back to TKIP. As a result of AES requiring hardware, this isn’t supported with my (relatively old) iPAQ. Unfortunately there seems to be a problem with the iPAQ talking to the router correctly with this proprietary system.
After much Googling, I discovered two things:
- There have been lots of people struggling to get Windows Mobile devices to talk to WPA networks
- This has been discussed at length on the Linksys forums, most specifically in this thread.
I also spoke to the Linksys technical support people, who were rubbish and couldn’t give me any advice.
It looks like my best hope at present is either to swap my current router for another one (I’m not that desperate for wireless connectivity), or hope that it is addressed in a future firmware update. Unfortunately the Linksys helpdesk person couldn’t tell me when this would be, so it looks like I’m stuck for now.
Ages ago (in a pre-blog world), I wrote on my proper web-site about my new Philips SLA-5520 (aka “The Streamium”). All was good with the world and my collection of CDs were available at the touch of a button, streamed wirelessly from my mini-ITX PC.
Unfortunately, bad things started to happen. Sometimes it would fail to power on; or briefly power-up, then reset itself, only to reset itself again and end up in a very slow loop. Combined with the fact we didn’t play music that often, I never really gave it much thought. Last week it really got to me, I had a bit think and concluded it must be a power supply problem.
Off to eBay then to source a suitable PSU. It needed to be a unit capable of delivering 9V at a current of at least 500mA. I managed to find a brand-new 1200mA version, taken from a high-end BT cordless phone. Hopefully that would be beefy enough to supply the device with any spikes in startup current required, while remaining stable enough as time went by. Delivered for £6.
It arrived yesterday and I’m pleased to report things are hunky-dory again. I needed to take the connector off the old supply and use it to replace the one on the new supply: the old one was a right-angled version to make the leads run away to the back nicely; and it had a small locking indent near the tip. A bit of electricians’ tape later and we are up and running.
The music lives on.